This year while planning our winter holidays we were at a dilemma. We had already zeroed in on a road trip but couldn’t finalize the destination. That’s when we remembered Amitabh Bachchan’s Ad for Gujarat Tourism and decided to “guzaro kuch din in Gujarat”.  And we were glad we did! Kutch nahi dekha toh kuch nahi dekha!! The famous tagline of Rann of Kutch is true to its word. Very few places are as mesmerizing as this vast expanse of white salt desert.

Located mainly in the state of Gurajat in India, Great Rann of Kutch also extends to the Sindh province in Pakistan. The seasonal salt marsh covers an area of 10,000 sq miles and is one of the biggest salt marshes in the world.

Great Rann of Kutch – The White Salt Desert

The Great Rann of Kutch is fascinating no doubt but also cruel with extreme temperatures. It lies submerged in water during the monsoon months and once the wet season ends the water starts drying up and leaves behind a vast expanse of white salt marsh. The great Rann of Kutch is best experienced only in the winter months as the summer months are scorching.

Rann Utsav

Started in 2006, under the leadership of PM Modi, the tourism board of Gujarat organises Rann Utsav from October to February. Imagine Great Rann of Kutch – The White Salt Desert, shimmering in the moonlight and speckled with a plethora of bright colors and celebrations. This three month extravaganza is organised by the Gujarat Tourism and gives a colorful insight into the life and culture of the Kutch community. The festival celebrates the local culture, music, dance, food and handicrafts. There are packages that provide transportation, accommodation, food and sightseeing. The package also includes ATV rides, camel rides, kids attractions and cultural programs.

When to Visit

We feel the best time to visit is a few days before or after the full moon night. You almost get a full moon and the rates are also not exorbitant. But they are still at a premium compared to the rates on other days. If you want tranquility better to visit just before or after the festival. But be vary in case of late monsoons the marsh might not dry up completely. You can also visit in the months of March and April. The salt desert will be all yours but the place will be devoid of any amenities including toilets. In May, the temperatures are too high and the reflections are blinding.

How to Reach

Bhuj is the closest railway station and bus junction. Resorts usually provide transportation from Bhuj. The Bhuj railway station is connected to major cities in the country. It also has a domestic airport. Indigo, Go Air, Spice Jet and Air India have direct flights from Mumbai to Bhuj.

However, since we also wanted to visit other destinations in Gujrat such as the Gir forest for showing lions to our little one (read “actually for us” ), Somnath mandir & Diu, we again decided to do a yet another road trip from Delhi to Gujrat including the Great Rann of Kutch (3450 km).

How to Get the Permit

Since the great Rann of Kutch separates India from Pakistan, you need a permit to visit this part of border. The permit can be got online here. It can also be taken at the check-post when you enter Kutch. The charges for adult is Rs 100. Children between 6 and 12 are charged Rs 50. Two wheeler and four wheeler are charged Rs 25 and Rs 50 respectively.

Where to Stay

Rann Utsav – The Tent City (For its royalness)

Every year, from October to February, Dhordo, in Kutch gets converted into the Tent City. Hundreds of tents are set up for accommodations as well as for food and handicrafts. Around 8000 people visit Rann Utsav and the number peaks during full moon nights. Also, the package rates are the highest during full moon nights. The tent city have tent accommodations and are part of the Gujarat Tourism Board.

If you are not travelling with your own vehicle and would like that all your travel needs including sightseeing are taken care of, then the Tent City is what you are looking for. The regal decor of the Tent City in itself is a sight to behold. With a great location at the edge of the white salt desert, this well organized tent city engages you with its cultural programs, tours to the salt desert in camel carts, courteous staff and tasty buffet food options. Wifi is available only around the reception area however, Airtel network works pretty well in and around Dhordo.

The Gateway To Rann Resort (For awesome Bhungas)

If you have access to your own transport, either cabs or your own private vehicle, then there are numerous resorts around the tent city that provide the same amenities at lower cost. The accommodation consists of tents or Bhungas – traditional mud houses spherical in shape with a thatched conical roof. The Bhungas have traditional Kutchi architecture and also keep the interiors comfortable in the harsh conditions outside. These Bhungas also withstood the devastating earthquake that shook Bhuj in 2001.

Traditional Lippan Work Adorning the Bhungas

The Gateway To Rann Resort is right next to the tent city offering stay in traditional Bhungas. The Bhungas here are huge and adorned with intricate Lippan decorations on the walls. The furniture is typical Kutchi style. Rooms are huge and very comfortable. Engaging cultural programs are also organized every night. Meals are typical Gujrati style thalis with tasty homely food. Since the stay is affordable than the tent city, the local sightseeing is not included in the package. However, local sightseeing is very convenient and not an issue with your own vehicle.

Hodka (For a more affordable stay)

About 20 km from Dhordo Tent City, lies another village Hodka. For a more affordable stay, Hodka is definitely an option. Here, homestays are also available. You can even get a feel of the local hospitality here. This is the closest you can get to living like a local. But apart from the tent city, you will again need a transport to reach these resorts. There is no public transport here and if you have your own private vehicle only then plan any of these private resorts. However, since you would be visiting the Great Rann of Kutch perhaps either during sunrise or sunset, you will have to drive to/fro in hours of darkness. With no street lights around, you need to be comfortable doing so if you wish to choose this option.

You could plan your stay in either Hodka Rann Stay or the Rann Bhoomi Resort.

What to Expect

The terrain is a vast expanse of arid flat lands called Banni, and the natives here are simple shepherds who originally belonged to Sindh. Make sure to interact with them for interesting tidbits about the region. Their melodious folk music is not to be missed.

The formation of the great salt desert is a natural phenomenon and depends entirely on the seasonal change. We visited in January 2020 and some parts of it was still wet as the monsoon extended well into October last year. The slat lies in layers on wet marshy land and you will get your shoes wet and dirty at some places. The areas most walked on will have less salt on it and the mud underneath is exposed. For best experience pick a spot that is less travelled and stay put to catch the perfect sunset. The Rann is breathtakingly beautiful and the best we can do is enjoy its beauty as a responsible traveller.

Places of Interest around the Great Rann of Kutch

Kalo Dungar

Kalo Dungar or the Black Mountain is the highest point in Kutch. The mountain can be easily reached by road. You can get an aerial shot of the Rann from here. There is also a famous temple with stalls selling refreshments at the top. Getting dressed in traditional Kutchi attire and getting clicked against the beautiful backdrop is an added attraction.

Magnetic Field Area

On the way to Kalo Dungar you come across a sign board mentioning a magnetic area. Many cars stopped here and we too found it intriguing enough to try it out. The car actually climbs up the slope while in neutral. It was fascinating to experience it.

Tropic of Cancer

The Tropic of Cancer passes through a few kilometers from Dhordo towards Bhuj. There is just a road sign mentioning this but serves as a good geographic lesson for the kids.

Gandhi Nu Gam

This is a holistic model village reconstructed after the devastating earthquake that shook Kutch in 2001. The entire village is built keeping in mind the socio-cultural traditions of the area. The village consists of 455 Bhungas, community buildings, three schools, a grass bank, two mosques and a temple. The village also have a proper sanitation system in place. The people living here dress in their colorful traditional attire and make handicrafts which can be bought here.

Little Rann of Kutch

This part of fascinating marshy landscape has the only Wild Ass Sanctuary in India. The endangered Wild Ass or Khur is found only in this part of the country. The sanctuary aims to conserve the biodiversity and rich ecological area of this region. Along with wild ass, you can also view the migratory birds and also fox and jackals.

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